I want to introduce some few tips that you will see me using while sewing my garments.
I love french seams, doing blind hems and I also use a lot of bias tape. These three things are frequently used in couture fashion. I’ve been taught a lot of couture sewing tips during my studies and I learned a lot while working day and night for designers. Then there was a time that I worked for ready-to-wear fashion brands and forgot everything. Now I’m trying to remember and use this tips.
Usually when someone buys one of my patterns, if the garment design requires, they will also receive a file that contains the instruction of how to sew bias and french seams. But it’s up to you to follow or not the instructions, you can always sew your garment differently and use your own tips.
I sell my patterns with seam allowance already included. Generally, the amount of the seam allowance is 1 cm and 1,5 cm. Usually, for Jersey/Knit garments the seam amount will be 0,7 cm and 1,5 cm for the hem; and for the garments made with other types of fabric like poplin, linen, crepe and so on, will be 1,5 cm.
So the first is French seam, WS is for the wrong side of the fabric and RS – right side of the fabric:
Second sewing tip is how I usually use bias. Bias tape is useful for curved hems, to finish the raw inside seams of garments, as facing, as decoration and many other ways of use. The bias tape in the picture is 14 mm wide:
Bias tape for finishing the inside seams.